Saturday, July 17, 2010

A Fond Farewell

Well it's finally Day 18. The last day of our trip. As of right now, I am sitting in the Vancouver Airport, awaiting our flight to Newark. It has been a long day already and will not end until 10 p.m.

We spent our last day on the Diamond Princess in a state of complete relaxation. Mom and I got pedicures in the morning then had our final breakfast at Sabatini's. The sun came out and it was a beautiful day as we cruised towards Vancouver. We soaked in the sunshine as we wrote, read and ate lunch on our deck.

Alas, we had to pack and did so with a heavy heart. Dinner was a quiet affair in the dining room as we said goodbye to our waiters, Ferdinand and Berta. We played gin in the Wheelhouse Bar (I was running the table) and then retired for the night.

The trip, to say the least, has been fantastic. I want to thank everyone who read the blog and a double thanks to those who commented - letting me know that someone out there was reading my writing. Hopefully you enjoyed it and if you didn't then don't tell me. I'd rather live in a world where everyone adores my writing and I have no critics.

And so this post will be the last on this blog for the time being. I've enjoyed writing it and I hope you all enjoyed reading it. I have no future travel plans as of yet but I'm sure I'll get the bug soon enough and be back in action. Thanks again!

Friday, July 16, 2010

Mangia Mangia

I looked up the definition of cruise ship and found that it means place where you have unlimited food and gain 10 pounds in a week.

Indeed, they are correct. This cruise ship has unlimited food and I might have gained 10 lbs, give or take 5 lbs. It's a rather vicious cycle. You get up in the morning and eat. Either buffet style or as we have, in a small restaurant called Sabatini's. It is a place that suite passengers can eat breakfast and it's lovely.
Then you wander the ship, looking for something to do until it's lunchtime. Then you eat lunch. Then you wander the ship, think about going to the gym but nap instead.
Next thing you know it's time to get ready for dinner. You go eat dinner and you have to have dessert every night. Then it's to bed or to a bar. Sleep, wake, repeat. You can get food at anytime that you might be bored. You have unlimited 24-hour room service. So yea, you all get the point.

So, to keep the cycle going, we decided to pay an extra charge for dinner and eat in Sabatini's. Greatest idea ever.

We arrived for dinner at 9 pm, only time they had available. Our waitress explains how they work. It is a trattoria-style restaurant. You order either a soup or a salad and your main course. Everything else is brought to you on a tray and you get to sample what you wish to. So we order our soup or salad and entree and then dip our amazing bread into olive oil. Then the rounds began...bear with me, I don't remember everything exactly but it all tasted awesome.

First course: Cold Antipasti. Prosciutto with melon and arugula. Marinated Artichokes. Marinated Shrimp. Sun-dried Tomatoes. Chunks of Parmesan.
Second course: Hot Antipasti. Crab cakes. Ricotta Flan. Calamari. Zucchini Fritta.
Third course: Our soup or salad. I had a White Bean Fagioli. Very good.
Fourth course: Pasta. Homemade Potato Ravioli in a Basil Oil. Unreal. Also, large flat noodles with mushrooms in a cream sauce. Amazing.
Fifth course: Entree. Like we are even hungry at this point. I had stuffed chicken. Mom had Sea Bass and Dad had scallops. All fantastic.
Sixth course: Dessert. Best part. Mom and Dad had a white chocolate mousse. I had Tiramisu. Best Ever. Seriously fantastic.

Then they wheeled us out of the dining room. Well not really but we were done in. Amazing service and a great overall experience. It took about two hours and I immediately passed out when I arrived back to the room. Totally worth the extra charge and even the extra calories. However, despite the amazing food, I think we are looking forward to getting back to our normal diets when returning home.

The Ballad of the Aleutians

Bering Sea King Crab Tour
....A cruise Line's version of the Deadliest Catch
by Betsy

Not counting the 7 days we spent with Tim and Jackie, which was priceless, this last tour we opted for out of Ketchikan was the best tour we took. The F/V Aleutian Ballad is a fishing vessel (that's what the F/V stands for - something else I learned) that had previously been an active King Crab Fishing Boat and was actually featured during the 2002 season of Deadliest Catch. For those of you who religiously follow the show, this is the boat that took a 60 foot rogue wave over the side, rolled it on its side, but managed to recover. Well good news - there were no rogue waves Thursday; in fact the weather once again was smiling on us with sunshine and calm seas. We were treated to a fantastic afternoon of wildlife viewing both above and below the sea.


picture of the Aleutian Ballad

We traveled about 40-50 minutes from Ketchikan to a secluded area where the sunshine felt even stronger and the wind was even calmer. We were able to view sea lions sunning themselves on small islands.



Then, to our surprise, the Aleutian Ballad arrived near another island - this one full of eagles. They proceeded to toss fish into the water for the eagles as we stood by with our cameras snapping picture after picture of these beautiful creatures. I managed to get many good shots and have to say my arms were actually tired from holding the camera and snapping pictures, which sounds sort of ridiculous but was true!





Next we ambled along to where they had set a crab pot and pulled it in, just like in the show, although they don't dump the crab on the deck for this tour. We caught Brown King Crabs this time. Further along they caught and/or pulled in a Spiny Rockfish, Sea Prawns, Starfish, Sunflower Sea Star, Rock Crab, Dungeness Crab,
a Wolf eel and Octopus. Both the Wolf eel and Octopus will get into the crab pots and eat the King Crab so they have to catch these predators and keep them alive in a keg-shaped trap. Even if they try to return these predators to another spot in the ocean, they will remember where the King Crab pots are and return - they have a very good memory.




Hardcore Crab Eating.

Coffee, Tea, and Hot Chocolate were complimentary along with a snack for the ride back. And of course there was a shop onboard to purchase t-shirts, hats, etc. - we were told somewhere along the line that it's an Alaskan law that there must be a gift shop within 1000 feet of a tourist - I must say that all Alaskans comply with the law. But again, the tour was wonderful and the crew and boat captain were very candid, informative and interactive with us. They even posed with all of us at the end for a picture taken with the ships life buoy.


Crew Member Don, Ed, Betsy and Crew Member Terry

A Snarkle of a Time

When choosing what tours to take in Alaska, I came upon one in Ketchikan that seemed so awesome I couldn't not do it. Snorkeling. Seriously, who says they snorkeled in Alaska. Now some might say I am mildly retarded or clinically insane. I told a guide what I was doing and she thought I was crazy. Even my brother, a trained Army Ranger, thought me to be crazy. But I could snorkel in Alaska - soo much cooler than snorkeling in the Bahamas or Bermuda.

So, when we arrived in Ketchikan, I was relieved that it was a nicer day than it had been in Juneau. Clearing skies with some chance of rain. Not that it would matter when I was in the water but the sun is always better than clouds. I got off the ship at the appointed time and met up with my guide. I ended up being the only one in the group that was from a Princess Ship. All the others were from the Zuiderdam - a Holland America Line cruise ship. (Side note: there are many other ships in port when we dock. There were four in Skagway, three in Juneau and four in Ketchikan. So many of the tours have people from all different cruise ships.)



Anyways, we boarded a bus and drove 10 minutes to the dive shop. Here we got a quick lesson on how to get dressed and then went at it. Putting these wet suits on is harder than pulling up spanx but it does the same thing. It's like a constant corset for your entire body. The suits are 7 mm thick and are made of nyoprene. Nyoprene is a substance that allows the water in to a certain layer. Then it lets your body heat the bubbles of water in the suit, keeping you warm all the time. If anyone knows me well, you know that I am cold all the time. My normal body temperature is most often lower than 98.6. So I was a bit wary about getting cold.

We put on the suits. Then the booties. Then the hood. Then we were zipped up and ready to go. Got our masks, snorkels and gloves and boarded the bus again. We went a mile down the road to Mountain Point - the place where we were to snorkel. We got out, suited up and then got into the water. It was about 59 degrees. It was....chilly. I wasn't cold all the time but in no way was I hot. I had to keep moving so I didn't get cold but by the end, my hands were freezing.

Despite all that, we saw some really cool things. Sea stars, sea urchins, sea cucumbers. I held all of them and took pictures - with an underwater camera so don't expect any of those. It was sorta crazy to see that these animals survive in these cold waters.


Sunflower Sea Star

After about an hour in the water, I was ready to get out. I had finally gotten cold and needed some warmth. We got back on the bus and went back to the dive shop to change. Getting out of the wet suits is about as difficult as getting into them but it was nice to be able to breath once again. All in all, the tour was awesome. I recommend it to anyone who goes to Ketchikan or any part of South East Alaska that offers the tour. The people were great and it was an experience that I will not soon forget.

My parents, however, decided to gallivant by themselves today and headed off on a crab fishing vessel that was once used in the show, The Deadliest Catch.
But that story will be told in a separate blog. Til then..

Our Beautiful World

While Kate is busy writing all the quips and one liners - I'm starting to get a little more retrospective so indulge me for a minute - or close the page, whichever works for you.

A funny thing happens on Day 15 of your vacation. You start to get real relaxed and real comfortable living this simple life....breakfast, lunch, and dinner are provided...take a tour sometime during the day....soak in a hot tub....read your book...find a quiet spot on the ship where no one will find you.....check email if and when you want to....check your bank balance online to be sure you can still be away from work....stroll through the shops.....sit and have a drink...wander out on deck and stare at the ocean...life is short and we all need to slow down and just look around - the world is a magnificent place if only we would take the time to notice.

We have had such a great getaway and we really feel like we have seen and experienced lots of Alaska. Forgive us when we are daydreaming a bit next week - you know where our heads will be for awhile....Betsy

One If By Land, Two If By Sea

A vacation of this kind is only for the strong of heart. I've spent almost every waking moment of the past 2 and 1/2 weeks with various members of my family. We've been in cars, trailers, boats and buses together. I've learned more about them than I ever thought I would learn - or would need to learn. We've all been a party to each others quirks and quips - many of which have become inside jokes. One would think that a vacation of this magnitude could only end in bloodshed. However, the only blood shed was when Mom got a bloody nose due to a change in altitude.

Alas, our time together finally came to an end in Juneau. My parents got fed up by my late-night drinking escapades and my sarcastic wit. They ditched me to take their own tour - a float trip down the Mendenhall River. But more on their time later for I must have my say first.

So they threw me out early to go on my own tour - another hike. This one also included Mendenhall as we hiked to a point overlooking the Mendenhall Glacier. I awoke at 7 am when room service knocked on our door. I looked outside to see that it was....raining! Hooray! Hiking in the rain. That's the only way I'd do it anyways.

Met the tour group by 750 a.m. and boarded another bus that took us to the trail head. On the way, we got a short history of Juneau and here are some points of interest.

Quick Facts:
- Juneau is the only U.S. capital that cannot be accessed by car. You must come in on either a boat or plane. Spread that trivia around.
- Juneau has two McDonalds. When the first one arrived 20 years ago, there was a line that surrounded the building twice. People bought 20 burgers a piece - for everyone they knew. Also a plane came in and took over 200 burgers to another town nearby that has no McDonalds. It was a huge moment.
- Juneau just recently got a second high school. Find another U.S. capital that only has one high school. Crazy. Those who play high school sports in Juneau must either fly or take a ferry to play other schools. Lots of fundraising.
- There is one major road - called The Road. It is 39 miles long. At both ends there are signs that say "The End." Both have bullet holes in them.
- Juneau has more trails than roads.
- Also, Juneau has about 250 days of rain and 270 days that are overcast. Not much sunlight to be had in Juneau.

My hike commenced at 830. We climbed high into the Tongass National Forest. There was a 600 ft. elevation change - not too bad - and the hike was about 3 miles round trip. One of the worst parts of the hike was the rain but that is to be expected in Juneau. Another bad part was the 200 stairs. Right before the scenic overlook, you had to walk up 200 steps. It was like a slap in the face after spending most of the first part of the hike going uphill. We all made it to the top and then took a short path to the scenic overlook. Got some beautiful views of the Mendenhall Glacier that can only be seen by those who hike there.



Then we began our descent - all downhill...of course. Stopped for some more shots of the glacier and some pretty waterfalls.





Despite hiking in the rain, the tour was awesome and I was able to truly experience Juneau for what it is. And despite the weather, I think I could live in Juneau.
We got back to downtown Juneau by 1230 and I met up with my parents. We did some shopping and then boarded the ship to get lunch and relax for the rest of the day.

Now, since you are all sick of reading my writing, here is a recap of my parents trip - written by my mother.

Juneau - A Family Divided!
(written by Betsy, with permission by Kate)

We finally were able to ditch Kate (or maybe she ditched us??) and Ed and I headed off on a tour of the Mendenhall Glacier and Mendenhall River Float Trip. Unfortunately we have caught up with the true Alaskan weather and today it was raining and quite cool, with patches of fog - a little difficult to even see the glacier. However, as always, our tour guides make it fun as they handed out colorful bib overalls for us to put on, along with rubber boots, rain slicker and life jacket - think of Charlie Brown getting dressed to go out and play in the snow - you can hardly move once outfitted. Ed's favorite part was when I was issued ORANGE bib overalls - yes, ORANGE - that favorite color of Ed's that we give him so much grief about - well this time I had to wear them and he was quick to snap a picture of me.


Attractive? You bet.


My favorite picture of the cruise.

Sidenote: Did we tell you that Ed actually lost his orange overalls and rain slicker in Nilnichik? Now I know you are probably thinking that Kate or Tim or Jackie or I had something to do with them disappearing and it would have been a pretty neat trick on our part but honest, we have no idea where they went. Ed put them in the back of the pick up truck and next thing we know they are gone. Could there be someone else out there who likes to wear that color besides Mr. Ed?

Two-Timing Tongass

Well we've gone from 80 degree temperatures to glaciers and now we have entered the rainforest. No joke, the Tongass National Forest - all 17 million acres of it - encompasses much of South Eastern Alaska. It is the largest national forest in the U.S.

So Alaska can get pretty crappy summer weather. Southeast Alaska that is. They actually don't have a summer as we know one at home. Fairbanks gets the extremes: from 80 in the summer to -40 in the winter. However, in southeast Alaska, it ranges from 20-60 degrees Fahrenheit over the course of the year. Sometimes it gets below zero and sometimes it reaches 70 and 80 degree temperatures.

We entered Skagway, the first stop on our cruise, very early on Tuesday morning. The town is tucked back in a valley and was formed during the gold rush of 1898. Nowadays it only operates during the summer - purely a tourist town. During the winter, the entire town is boarded up and it shuts down. This is not abnormal for many towns in Alaska. For example, the Denali and McKinley Princess, two hotels we stayed at during our trip, shut down entirely come mid-September. They board up the buildings and become ghost towns during the winter months. Seems rather eerie to me.



However, Haines - a small town across the bay from Skagway, does not shut down during the winter months. It was here that we took our hike. This town's population fluctuates between 2100 and 2500 people over the course of a year, the 2500 being the population in the summer. We disembarked the ship around 9 a.m. and boarded a ferry to cross the bay to go to Haines. Then we boarded a small bus that took us to the trail head.


A view of Skagway from Battery Point

The hike lasted most of the day. It was about 4 miles round trip. They took us to a place called Battery Point where there is a beach. Quick note - Alaskan beaches are made of rock. Don't get too excited about beach visiting. It would be rather uncomfortable to lay on. We got some great photos during our hike and learned a lot about our surroundings. 90% of the trees in the woods we were hiking in are either Sitka Spruce or Western Hemlock (not the stuff that killed Socrates.) However we did locate that.


I brought some home in hopes of testing it out! Take that, Canadian custom officials.

The guides were locals - not born and raised - but have lived in Haines for an extended period of time. We lunched on Smoked Salmon Wraps - jury is still out on them - and then headed back to the trail head. The terrain was full of roots. Not a ton of elevation change but you had to constantly watch your feet so as to not trip over rocks or roots.

After ferrying back to Skagway, we stayed in town to do some shopping. Walked the main drag - known as Broadway - and got dinner at the Skagway Brewing Company. They have excellent porter. Mmmmm dark beers :) Then we wandered back to the ship, getting lost once, and almost decided to make a run for the Canadian Border - it's only 15 miles away!



We got back on board the ship to have a relaxing night. Went to the Lotus Spa and enjoyed the hot tubs and sauna. Almost fell asleep on the heated beds. FYI, those things rock and should become household necessities. Got some room service later that night and then fell asleep. It was definitely one of our most relaxing nights since joining the cruise and was much needed.